|
[Home]
[Up]
| |
Turning Finishes
If you don't see it, we can get it. Please call for the
latest prices. We have sales representatives in the Haifa [north], MATKO in Tel Aviv
[central] 03-560-8343, Jerusalem , and Be'er Sheva [south] areas. We also deliver to all areas in the country, please inquire.
For more information call 02-533-4759 or 053-621110
or e-mail to:
sales@woodturningworks.com
|
High Build Friction Polish
|
| There are three popular ways
of finishing with this product to produce stunning results. Sand the turned
item using a cloth backed abrasive to at least 400grade quality. Apply the
high build with a lint free cotton cloth, lightly, whilst the item is
turning. Achieving the desired build may require stopping application
occasionally, lightly de-nibbing, and then continuing application.
If the turned item is to be handled regularly then seal in the friction
polish with an additional application of a Carnauba Wax Stick. Thiis is
applied with the lathe at high speed passing from one end of the piece to
the other, exerting minimal pressure. Buff with a clean piece of cotton
cloth. This can then be handled for years, retaining the original look. |
|
| |
|
|
Melamine Lacquer
|
| For open grained timbers seal
first with Cellulose Sanding Sealer. Apply thin coats of Melamine Lacquer
with a brush or cloth. Melamine Lacquer can be thinned with Mylands
Cellulose Thinners. De-nib or cut back with a fine abrasive. Melamine
Lacquer produces a water resistant, clear hard wearing finish.
Satin Finish - As above
Matt Finish - Cut back lightly with steel wool
Gloss Finish - Wax with clear wax |
|
| |
|
|
Wood Finishing Oil
|
| Mylands
Woodfinishing Oil combines the hard wearing properties of Tung Oil and other
quality oils. Finishing Oil is suitable for all interior wood-work,
especially kitchen work surfaces, tables and other furniture that is in
constant use. Woodfinishing Oil is resistant to alcohol, water and heat. |
|
| Remove old finishes with paint or varnish
remover before applications of Finishing Oil. Old oiled or waxed surfaces
must be cleaned with Mylands De-Waxing Solution and slightly abraded with
fine abrasive paper or steel wool before re-application. To stain the wood
use Mylands water based wood dyes. Apply the first coat of Mylands Finishing
Oil with a brush or cloth and allow to penetrate for 5 minutes before
removing excess. Allow to dry for a minimum of 4 hours before subsequent
thin applications of Mylands Finishing Oil. Finishing Oil can be applied
thinly with a French polish rubber (a piece of mutton cloth or wadding
surrounded by lint free cotton cloth made into a flat bottomed pad). Cut
back lightly between coats with a 320 grade paper or 0000 steel wool.
After a curing time of seven days Finishing Oil can be over waxed for
decorative funiture. This finishing system is also applicable to wood
turning.
Important
Do not leave oily cloths rolled or screwed up as they can self-combust.
Leave open to dry and then dispose of. Always test the product on an off cut
of wood or an inconspicuous area of furniture to check desired colour and
finished results. Clean working surfaces that have been oiled with a damp
cloth.
Coverage - 10-12 sq. metres per litre
Drying Time - Minimum 4 hours per application
Cleaning - White Spirit |
| |
|
|
Cellulose Sanding Sealer
|
| Cellulose Sanding Sealer has been sprayed
onto reproduction furniture for years as a sealer prior to applications of
Cellulose Lacquer. It is also effective as a quick drying clear sealer
prior to applications of High Build Friction Polish and Melamine Lacquer. It
can also be used in conjunction with clear wax polish to give a quick-dry
low sheen, water resistant finish. Apply Cellulose Sanding Sealer whilst the
lathe is stationary with a rag or brush. |
|
Traditional Toluene Wax Polishes
|
| Conservation of real Antique Furniture
can be achieved in its simplest form with Mylands Wax Polishes
especially our Traditional Waxes for Restoration. The refinishing of
mahogany and oak furniture manufactured in the 20th century can be
attempted by the keen amateur with a little knowledge and using products
available mostly from our range. 18th, 19th and 20th century pine can
be improved with application of more wax. But dark Antique Furniture
from 18th and 19th century should only be restored by or with the help
of an experienced Polisher or Restorer. Bad restoration work will almost
certainly de-value quality antique furniture. |
|
|
